Annette Cutts

Aquilegias are still a traditional and very much loved cottage garden plant. Also known as "Grannies Bonnets" or columbines they come in a huge range of colours, both in flower and foliage. Flower shapes also differ and some have spurs and some do not. In recent years we have also been delighted by the increasing number of hybrids that have a wonderful perfume.

Aquilegias mainly flower in late spring/early summer and they fall into two main types. The first group is the Alpine types, such as Aquilegia Alpina and A. Flabelatta. These are found in the wild growing in mountain cracks or screes and they are usually smaller in height, usually referred to as dwarf varieties. In the garden these need to be planted in gravel beds and troughs and mulched with gravel in order to keep their collars dry. The second group is found in the valley bottoms. These are much taller varieties and tend to make up the majority of the Aquilegias grown in our borders.

Joyce Husseini

Aquilegias are not difficult to grow. They will grow in acid soil and chalk, in part shade or full sun. However, what they must have is a moisture retentive soil. Aquilegias do not like prolonged dryness at their roots and will soon become distressed, making them vulnerable to pests and diseases. If you want to grow them but have a sandy or dry soil then you must add plenty of well rotted manure or compost to the soil and also provide the surface with a mulch after planting. This will help to retain as much moisture as possible and thus keep the plants happy. Aftercare also could not be easier. Once the flower has stopped flowering, or, after it has produced seed cut the plant down to the ground and give it a good watering. It will then produce fresh foliage though few will reflower.

	Joyce Husseini

Pests and Diseases
Aquilegias seem to suffer from few pests or diseases. The main threats to Aquilegias are slugs, snails, leaf miners and mildew. I have seen snails strip mature plants of all their foliage (they never seem to eat the flowers much) and slugs will occasionally nibble the odd seedling. Leaves can also be affected by the leaf miner beetle. These leave white trails as they burrow within the leaves and can look quite worrying. These seldom damage the plant though but any effected foliage should be picked off and burned.

Joyce Husseini

Mildew is usually caused by either too high temperatures or excessive dryness. This fungal condition can also be a sign of tiredness at the end of the growing season. Either way it is not something to worry about excessively. Prevention is better than cure. If your Aquilegias are effected by environmental conditions then try to rectify the problem. If it is due to end of season tiredness then just cut the foliage down to ground level and they will soon grow fresh foliage.

If you have grown many Aquilegias you will have noticed that they hybridise easily with many new variations appearing each year. Aquilegias also self seed copiously so if you do not want to be overrun with seedlings you have to remove the seedpods before they turn brown and shed their seed everywhere.

Joyce Husseini

People's experiences with getting good germination results from Aquilegia seed seems to vary. Some have no problems at all, saying they are the easiest plants to grow whilst others struggle to get any germination at all. In my opinion success depends very much upon which species you are trying to germinate. Herbaceous hybrids particularly the Vulgaris species do not seem to require any special treatment and can be sown at any time of the year but other species Aquilegias can be more problematic. I store all my seed in the fridge and I think a cold period of 3-4 weeks is beneficial to many species, especially those from mountainous regions.

	Joyce Husseini

Germination is best at between 55-60 degrees F. Good light is needed also, but do not place seed pots in direct sunlight. I have done many seed trials over the years and I have found that the most important factor in success is in the watering. Seeds once sown should never be allowed to dry out. I cover my seed only with vermiculite which prevents mould and keeps the moisture right next to the seed.

	I have a policy of watering a little bit everyday but cut right back as soon as the seedlings appear. The majority of seeds sown during spring and summer will germinate within 8 weeks. Alpine varieties however, may be sown in winter, covered with grit and left in a cold frame until spring when they should germinate.
Annette Cutts