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Hardy geraniums are not to be confused
with Pelargoniums, a succulent species from
south Africa which many people refer to
as a geranium. Pelargoniums come in shades
of mainly pink and red and they are planted
out as bedding plants, container plants
or placed on the windowsill and need winter
protection. This is not the Hardy Geranium.
These are mainly temperate plants that
are planted out permanently in the herbaceous
border or rock bed and will survive temperatures
often as low as -15 degrees C. Hardy Geraniums
are perennials (this means they flower year
after year), and, as their name suggests
they are one of the toughest and most reliable
plants that you will find in the garden.
There is virtually no place in the garden
where one of these plants cannot be planted.
From the driest, shadiest spot to the hottest
or dampest spot there is a geranium that
will thrive there. Hardy Geraniums are also
affected very little by pests and diseases.
Towards the end of flowering mildew can
appear.
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This is remedied by cutting the plant to
the ground. Fresh foliage will then appear
and often a second flush of flowers too.
Slugs and snails sometimes eat the leaves
but on the whole, do very little permanent
damage. As with many plants the biggest
pest is from vine weevils. This however,
only really affects pot grown plants and
using a vine weevil killer twice a year
will help to keep the problem under control.
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One of the
quickest and easiest ways of increasing
your stock of Hardy Geraniums is to
grow them from seed. Some geraniums
are sterile (they do not produce seed)
but many do and it is quite simple.
Patience is one of the virtues needed
for growing some geraniums as their
germination rates can be somewhat erratic.
Some germinate in a matter of weeks
whilst others are more staggered with
the whole batch taking months. Many
seeds are thrown out by inexperienced
growers as they think batches are not
viable. But this is seldom the case.
Seedlings can pop up one at a time sometimes
months apart. |
Seeds are best sown from March onwards.
I do not sow beyond the end of September.
Sow in 3 inch pots about 1cm apart and cover
either with 1cm of compost or vermiculite
and keep well watered. Seeds must never
dry out. Put them in a cool place approx
60 degrees F in good light (but not direct
sunlight).
Apart from the half hardy varieties; Maderense,
Canariense and the south African species,
hardy geraniums DO NOT need any bottom heat
in order to successfully germinate. Growing
plants on under heated conditions makes
them soft and less likely to withstand the
rigours of the elements outside.
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Prick out the seedlings when they have formed
their first set of leaves. I have found
it really doesn't matter which compost you
use as long as it has good drainage. Adding
vermiculite to the mix can help too. Hardy
Geraniums benefit from being put out in
their final positions as soon as possible.
They like to get their roots down and it
is staggering how quickly they grow away.
A good rule of thumb is 4 pairs of leaves.
Some protection from slugs would be advisable
at this stage. Whilst it is true they are
not partial to adult plants they will readily
make light work of a young one!
Planting Guide
Once established Hardy Geraniums are not
demanding of soil or time. When they are
first planted however, it pays to give them
a helping hand in order to become established.
Break up the soil well so that roots have
an easy run removing any large stones. When
planting mix a little well rotted manure
or compost into the soil.
These plants do not need a lot and grow
too lush at the expense of flowers if they
are fed too much. If your soil is sandy
or you live in a hot or drought prone area
they would also benefit from mulch in order
to retain moisture. Keep well watered until
established.
When they have finished flowering cut them
right down to the ground. Some species will
reflower but even if they don't this will
help to revive the plant, at the same time
making it look neater. Tidy away any dead
foliage in late winter to allow the new
growth to come through.
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