Ginny
subject: Perennials
I was looking for some perennials to start from
seed now that will bloom this year in zone6?
Richard
There are quite a few that will bloom the first
year if given an early start. Many composites (daisy
family) will do so -- coreopsis, gaillardia, shastas,
catananche, tanacetum, achillea etc.
Heuchera, delphinium, many dianthus, gaura, lavender,
malva, nepeta, many poppies, salvias and perennial
verbenas will also bloom.
Joaniesgarden at: 01.19.2002 10:38
subject: Campanulas (zone 5)
Out of all the Campanulas (and I know there are
many!)
Could you tell me which cultivars would bloom if
I started them from seed this early spring? I'm
a little confused by the biennial types. I know
most biennials are started in the late summer for
foliage and then bloom in the spring or later the
following year. Question is, do I buy the biennial
plants and start from seed the ones that bloom the
first year?
Richard
I've had C trachelium, C. persicifolia (spotty),
C. primulloides, C carpatica, C cochleariifolia,
and C. rotundifolia bloom the first year, but most
are still best with a year under their belt.
Adenophoras, which are so closely aligned with
campanula as to be indistinguishable will generally
bloom the first year, and Wahlenbergias, which are
their southern hemisphere counterparts will also
generally do so. The wahlenbergias wouldn't be hardy
for you, though.
For the canterbury bell biennial types, these
will sometimes bloom the first year as well, but
are better the second.
judi z.
subject: Types of Containers for Seed Starting
Do you favor one over the other? Compressed peat,
plastic 6-packs, newspaper pots, those pricey APS
systems? Does one prevent damping off, for example,
or provide better water retention, than another?
Richard
Damping off has more to do with sterility of the
planting medium as well as air circulation between
plants than anything else.
As far as water retention, this is also a factor
of the medium, itself -- in general, the more peat,
the more water is retained, as well as the volume
and
shape of the cells/flat. The bigger and deeper,
the less they dry out.
I sow most of my seeds directly into 406 trays
(406 plugs for each flat of approx 10x 20 inches).
larger seeds might go in something a bit bigger.
These are pretty small cells and quite a lot per
sheet, but they cut easily for smaller amounts.
When the seedlings are up and start to get crowded,
i then
transplant them into bigger cells or else 4 inch
pots. I find these small cells are efficient with
space as well as making for easy transplant, since
each
seedling is in its own cell as opposed to a community
pot.
from: Gripey
Richard, I saw where you talked about medium sterility...how
about the containers themselves and how is the best
way to obtain it?
Richard
If you are using new plastic, Gripey, you shouldn't
have to worry, but if you re-use, it's a good idea
to wash them in a little bleach solution first.
from: Joaniesgarden
Out of curiosity, how do you sow in the micro
trays? I can't imagine hand seeding over 300 seeds.
Is there a machine of some sort that does it, if
you want a tray full of the same type plant?
Richard
Big growers who sow flat after flat often use
a vacuum type of device where a grid is placed over
the flat with corresponding holes for each cell.
When the suction is provided, the seeds are held
in the little holes with the excess going back into
the bag of seeds. When the suction is released,
the seeds fall
into the flat.
I use a little hand-held device, though. It has
a dome to cover the seeds with a rotating dial that
selects an opening according to seed size. When
tapped lightly, the seeds then proceed through the
opening and down a little chute which is placed
over each cell in turn. Time consuming, but better
than my clumsy boy fingers.
from: Joaniesgarden
subject: Roses
Is it worth my effort to try and root rose cuttings
from grafted roses?
from: Richard
I think so.
I've done both hardwood and softwood cuttings
and have had success with both. I like own-root
roses to begin with, as I've had far fewer problems
with gall, not to mention no suckers to worry about.
I had a good bookmark on rose prop on my old computer,
but don't have it handy on this one. I bet if you
did a quick search on "Mel Hulse's rose
propagation" you'd probably find it. Good info
and very thorough.
from: Joaniesgarden
subject: re:Roses
Yes Richard, very good info- for anyone else interested.....
http://www.ars.org/experts/propagation.html
from: kay at:
subject: stratifying seeds
Thank you, Richard for sharing your expertise.
When I stratify seeds (in the fridge) do I simply
put the seed packet itself on a back shelf for a
few weeks, or should the seeds be in a potting medium?
Richard at:
The majority of seeds needing stratification need
to take in some water through the shell of the seed
while being refrigerated, so it is best to sow first
and then chill. If the seeds are big enough, though,
it might be easier as well as taking up less room
to wrap them up in a moist paper towel and put in
a ziplock.
from: Donna Lockman at:
subject: Growing Roses from
seeds or from hips? Is this possible? A friend
said she would bring me some hips from her mother's
beautiful rose in Germany. Can this be done? How?
Richard
They can be grown from seed, but the seed collected
from her plant will not necessarily recreate the
exact rose. It may or may not be similar in many
ways, but unless her rose is a species, the only
way to really guarantee getting the same rose is
through cuttings.
If you do want to try the seed, though, you will
need to make sure the seeds are properly ripe. In
cooler summer areas it can take a while for the
seeds to
ripen, and usually only seeds from the first flush
of bloom get there.
from: Gripey
subject: Fertilizing Seedlings
Richard, when (and if) do you recommend fertilizing
seedlings and what would you recommend using?
Richard
I usually start when they have a couple of sets
of true leaves and then use a liquid at low strength.
About half strength for the first couple of feedings
and then full after that. I like Peters, but miracle
Grow and anything similar is just fine. If you already
have a balanced liquid type fertilizer, I sure wouldn't
go out and get something new.
from: gdngfool
subject: PNW Best Seed Sources
Wondering what sources you think are best for growing
perennials in the PNW. Would like some exotic varieties
too.
Richard
My two favorite seed sources are both British,
or were you looking for an actual source here in
the pnw?
Chilterns and Plantworld are my two favorites,
though, and the service on both gets the seeds to
your door in a very reasonable time. Chilterns has
a wide range of everything with wonderfully quaint
plant descriptions, but no photos, while Plantworld
specializes in perennials that are mostly out of
the ordinary and has an illustrated catalogue.
from: gdngfool
subject: Standard flourescent lights for seed starting?
Just changed most of the lights in my house to
fluorescents. Wondering if these lights would promote
seed growth if the germinating seed trays are let
on top of the cabinets, about eighteen inches under
three recessed lights. *Warning: am a failed in-the-house
seed starter. It's very dark in here and only get
eastern light overhead*
Richard
Sounds like you might end up with some stretched
seedlings at 18 inches -- especially if its warm
on top of the cabinet.
Do you have a basement? One of the advantages
of growing seedlings on in a cooler location is
that they stay a little tighter in growth. You need
a light
set-up, of course. but if you can place the fluorescents
right above the seedlings and keep the temperatures
down a bit, you end up with better plants.
from: Gripey
subject: re:Standard flourescent lights for seed
starting?
Do you have a suggested temp once you get the
seeds up and going?
Richard
That can depend quite a bit on the plants, Gripey,
but most perennials are quite happy at around 60,
with some liking it a bit cooler than that . Warm
season annuals like petunias, marigolds, tomatoes
and such like it much warmer, though.
from: Tina
subject: Stubborn Hydrangea Propagation
I have a lacecap hydrangea that I would like to
take a few cuttings from for friends. I keep hearing
how simple it is to root hydrangeas but I've had
terrible luck with it (only one successful root
-- and I think that was accidental). Any tips? Should
I start in the spring, perhaps?
I think in the past I've waited too late into
the summer months. TIA!
z8/western WA
Richard
Any time the plants are actively growing usually
works on Hydrangeas, and it helps to take them from
robust parent plants in good health. Since they
have those big leaves, though, they lose a lot of
moisture through transpiration, so the cuttings
can dessicate if not misted frequently enough. I
usually cut the leaves in half before striking,
as this cuts down on surface area.
If you've been having trouble with cuttings, why
not try layering? All you have to do is see that
a branch is in contact with the ground and voila!
Maybe she'd let you find a couple of lower branches
and peg them.
from: Joaniesgarden
subject: Sweet leaf Stevia
One package from Burpee contains only 15 seeds.
I've never grown them before and have no idea how
big the seeds will be. Have any info on how big
the seed are and what they require (light/darkness)
growing requirements?
Richard
They are not big by any means, but you should
be able to handle them individually. You do want
to give them a fair bit of heat -- 75-80 or so,
so it may be a bit tougher in a basement that is
cool. They don't need light to my knowledge.
from: Tina
subject: Nicotiana Sylvestris
Richard, I recently received some nicotiana sylvestris
seeds from a friend. The first time I sowed what
I thought was sylvestris I started them in flats.
After that the plant self-sowed nicely. I'm wondering
if it would be better to start them indoors right
now or wait until March/April and direct sow them.
z8/western wa
Richard
I like direct sowing for a number of reasons,
not the least of which being that you don't have
to worry about spindly seedlings de to low light
or fuss with
hardening off/transplant shock or any of that.
from: h2o
subject: Preventing mold from developing on presoaked
seeds...
In the past I've pre-soaked my daylily seeds for
3-4 days before starting to germinate them. Last
year for whatever reason I had left a bunch of volunteer
seeds soaking for about 15 days. Well the seeds
that I soaked for 15 days germinated a lot faster
than the seeds soaked for less time. However, some
of the seeds that had soaked for that longer period
got a moldy whitish fuzz on them and I had to toss
them out. So my question is "What can I do
to prevent this mold from forming on the seeds that
I soak for a longer period" (I don't want to
lose any potential seedlings from my known crosses).
I would like to give all of my daylily seeds a longer
soaking period.
Richard
Most of the commercial growers just refrigerate
their seeds along with some moistened paper towel
for a few weeks prior to sowing, and add some antifungal
agent to the water in which they soak the towel.
If you soak them in water for longer periods, you
would probably need to do something similar and
use a fungicide before planting.
from: DicentraL
subject: re:Preventing mold from developing on presoaked
seeds...
Have a vague recollection that paper toweling
itself suppresses or retards molds and fungi. Something
about the paper-making process, perhaps?
Richard
Interesting -- must be something in the pulping,
I would think.
from: gdngfool
subject: Brugmansia cuttings rooted in water
Received brug cuttings as a Christmas gift, and
they've sprouted some formidable white roots. When
should I pot them? Should the roots be a certain
length? The cuttings themselves are about fourteen
inches long. What soil mix is best for brugs? Any
special care they need prior to putting them outside
in spring?
Richard
AS long as they have roots, you can go ahead and
pot them any time. Any regular soilless mix should
be fine, but try to give them as much light as you
can and keep them on the dry side until you can
put them outside. They can grow like gangbusters,
so you may end up repotting them come spring. That
little cutting can easily hit 5 feet by summer.
from: gdngfool
subject: Thanks...one more brug question...
Should I fertilize them like any other seedlings?
With low dosages of liquid fertilizer like fish
emulsion?
Richard
Sure -- they like to be fed, too. You might want
to switch to something higher in p & k later
on as they get closer to blooming, though.
from: Joaniesgarden
subject: Old seed.......
A friend gave me a box of old seed: pansies, periwinkle,
dusty miller, most are annuals. Most of the packages
are marked 1997. Do you think they would have any
life left in them? (or are they just compost?) Not
sure where they were stored?
Richard
Seeds can very so much in viability in relation
to time stored that it can be really tough to generalize.
They might fail to germinate at all or else germinate
weakly and be more prone to post germination problems,
or they might be little champs and shrug off their
age like nothing at all.
I'd give them a shot, anyway. Most annuals germinate
quickly enough that you would still have time to
replace them in the event they didn't pop.
from: kay
subject: re:Old seed.......
joanie, I test seed viability by placing 10 or
so seeds on a dampened paper towel, enclose it in
a ziploc bag, and keep it on top of the fridge(nice
and warm there)for about two weeks. if most of the
seeds sprout by then, I figure the whole packet
is worth trying.
from: samjuan
subject: 'Nuther Brug question
Mine is in a 20" pot. It didn't do much last
year and I didn't cut it down. It is now in the
warm, bright sun room. It's about 5' tall and has
large leaves and coming leaves on 2 tall stems and
several smaller stems. If I were to try to propagate
these stems, which ones and how much of a stem should
I cut? I have room to put them out in the ground
come late spring and can afford to lose them come
fall. I can propagate the mother plant every year
or take a promising new plant in for prop. purposes.
Richard
You can take cuttings from any of the stems, and
if long enough and growing in good health, some
might yield multiple cuttings. Just cut right below
a node (leaf juncture) into 3-4 inch sections or
thereabouts, strip off any lower leaves, and set.
Besides getting some new plants, your parent plant
will be pruned back and result in a bushier plant!
from: Sandie
subject: Hardenbergia ?
Hardenbergia - - - - the bluish-purple vine kind.
Which blooms in Fall/Winter.
I sadly lost mine last year (suddenly bolted,
don't know why) and I don't have any cuttings or
seeds, but other vines are around my area. I miss
her! A real beauty.
Is it easily propagatable? Cuttings or seeds best
to use?
What conditions do I need for the baby plant &
when can I put outside in pot, ... then in ground.
Is it OK to plant, against a fence (partly covered
with wire to cling to) ... that faces West. Gets
AM (light) shade, lots of light, sun from noon-on,
evening hot sun, but mild bay-area weather. Zone
14-17 (I forgot).
Richard
Cuttings are probably best as the seeds can be
tough to come by and you have the neighbors plants
as potential sources. Best time to take the cuttings
is while they are actively growing in spring, and
take the cuttings towards the tips of the growing
shoots, but not the very most recent. Just about
the point
where they just start to firm up is usually best.
Sounds like the spot you have in mind should be
fine for growing one.
from: Sandie
subject: Carmel Creeper ?
Can I propagate the plant "Carmel Creeper"
from cuttings or air-layering or seed? ( Sorry,
I have never learned any botanical names.)
Richard
I've had spotty success with some of the upright
ceanothus by taking fall cuttings and just allowing
them to root through winter. Probably better to
take them in late spring, though, and usually ground
covers are pretty easy to root, so the carmel creeper
variety should take well.
from: Sandie
subject: Norfolk Pines ?
I have several Norfolk Pine trees in pots. They
are 5, 7, & 10 ft. tall. When they lose their
branches (either from that branch drying up, or
from injury) ... they don't 'ever' grow back!
Can I propagate /(OR stimulate) new branches on
the original trunk? Maybe stimulate or foliar feed
- a node/ or feed the whole plant/ or graft, or
anything ..??? (taking guesses!)
Is there a way to get more branches to grow out
of the main trunk of the plant, ...or do I have
to propagate a whole new plant somehow, just to
get branches?
Richard
Are you talking about the lower branches? I don't
know of anything you can do if that's the case,
since nothing will encourage them to ever grow back.
If the top dies out, they will usually form a new
leader, but end up losing their form to the point
of being pretty ugly, and you're stuck with not
much recourse again.
One thing you might do, though, if it is the lower
branches falling resulting in a spindly appearance
is to buy a little starter plan -- I've seen them
occasionally in 4 inch containers -- and repot it
along with the big one so as it grows, it will help
fill in the gaps.
from: dabee
subject: Recipe for Seed Starting Soil
I usually spend a fortune on small bags of prepared
seed starting soil. Do you have a recipe to share
on making your own soil for starting seeds?
Richard
Equal parts sphagnum peat, perlite and coir (that's
the shredded coconut fibre) makes an excellent starting
mix. If you can't get the coir, then peat/perlite
works just fine.
from: Joaniesgarden
subject: Disease resistant hybrid seed
I grow vegetables in an area about 30x25 foot
area. I try to plan crop rotation on most things,
but it's tough trying to figure out where to put
things and not repeat, like peppers and tomatoes
are in the same kind of family. I buy hybrid disease
resistant seed to help the process. Is there anything
else I can do to my soil that will help fight disease?
So far, the only thing I've noticed is late blight
on the indeterminant tomatoes. (although, this year
I'll try some 'decorative' veggies, like colorful
Swiss chard in my flower beds) I haven't found tomatoes
to be 'decorative enough' to be put out in the front
yard
Richard
The fusarium and verticillium wilts that attack
those tomatoes and others can be tough to control,
since the water molds are in the soil. There are
drenches available like ridomil, banrot and subdue,
but that would sure blow an organic approach right
out of the water. If you can handle a season without
planting, putting black plastic over the area can
help by heating the soil high enough to kill off
some of the fungi.
Copyright 2002 justgardeners.com
