Judi z.
Fertilizing Clematis
What fertilizer(s) do you recommend and what fertilizing
schedule is best for healthy plants?
Gdngfool
In the spring, once clematis shoots are two inches
high, or higher *sometimes you don't notice them
until you pull back a rock or something* start fertilizing.
Clematis, like roses, seem to thrive on a variety
of fertilizers but I use fish emulsion mostly.
Experts suggest that you feed once a month. I
feed them when my roses are fed during the budding
season; every two to three weeks, then go to every
month when the growth begins to spurt.
With early blooming clemmies, the fertilizing
schedule starts sooner. Herbaceous clematis do not
need to be fed as often either because often they
are extremely vigorous.
Judi z.
Pruning Honeysuckle
How far back can honeysuckle be pruned when they
get a bit messy? What is the best time of the year
to do it?
Gdngfool
It really depends on the level of vigor and when
they leaf out, but it is hard to diminish a lonicera's
spirit. Many loniceras have different growth cycles
and display fruit as well as flower.
The hardier varieties, like Japonica, should be
pruned to shape several times during the growing
season.
Ideally, it would be great if you could prune
any lonicera after flowering or fruiting, but some
might resemble the plant in "The Little Shop
of Horrors".
When you are pruning, it's best to let the flowering
begin because sometimes you don't notice bud nodes
while they're first leafing out.
You are pretty safe pruning one anytime but in
the dead of winter or very cool temperatures.
Also, watch for suckering. Be sure to check the
base from time to time and prune suckers out, if
your variety is prone to suckering. Treat it like
a lilac tree that way and prune out suckers whenever
you see them. Save them and start new monsters for
your friends. Easy to start a lonicera or lilac,
for that matter, from a sucker.
Liz
What to Plant Around a Deck
I have a deck along one side of my house and there
is a pyracantha hedge alongside of it. The hedge
is dying, in fact dead in some spots. I pulled out
about 6-8 feet of it and would like a suggestion
of something I could plant to take its place. I
was thinking I could put up some sort of trellis
or wires or something and plant something that would
climb and grow quickly. I'm thinking this is sort
of a temporary thing until the rest of the hedge
dies. The deck is about 3-4 feet from the ground.
Any suggestion as to what I could plant? I think
I'm zone 9, in fact my climate is similar to yours,
except you get warmer
summers.
Gdngfool
It really depends on what exposure you have...in
terms of where the wall is, but if you have at least
five hours of light per day there, I'd plant a wichuriana
hybrid rose. They are the fastest growing roses
I've ever planted and are fragrant and prolific.
You can easily put up a trellis for one or just
put plastic netting up for initial support as they'll
drape over anything.
It might be fun for you to interplant a fast growing
tall and vigorous rose like that with an earlier
blooming clematis to contrast. If you choose a white
or light rose, it requires less light. But, depending
on the light, almost any climber will grow well
in your zone.
I'd use another vigorous grower for contrast and
spring bloom: a macropetala clematis like "Bluebird"
or any one of the Montanas: Montanas come in white,
apricot, light pink, and mid pink. All are extremely
easy to grow, as are wichuriana hybrids.
For another quick grower, choose a honeysuckle
*lonicera* with both flowering and fruiting qualities
like "japonica". It's a magnet for hummers
and other birds. You can whack it anytime and be
assured it will continue blooming and growing. They
begin flowering in late spring and end in early
fall when the berries begin.
Judi z.
Climbing Rose Recommendations
Just for some inspiration, can you list some faves--include
color and height? You've sold me on 'Lavender Lassie'
but there may be other gardeners who
are interested in a wider selection. Thanks! :)
Gdngfool
Ahhh and there's the rub. Some catalogs have such
disparate coloring and height that it makes it difficult
for gardeners who want a climbing rose for a specific
place. The growth estimates, methinks, are more
zone-dependent than catalogs take into consideration.
As far as the color, there are some issues with
that too; as you know your "Lavender Lassie"
will be more of a pink than a lavender tone, but
a vibrant sort of dusty pink.
My favorite climber is David Austin's first: "Constance
Spry". That is because my requirement for a
climber was that it be fragrant.
This rose is intoxicatingly fragrant but blooms
only once. The bloom, however, is so stunning that
people stop always to say "What is that rose
on the arbor?" CS grows to thirty feet or more
in zone 7. It's about year 7 for me. The first three
years it was sort of "inbounds" but now
it shoots up canes that grow seven feet in some
summers. Be careful out there. This is definitely
a display plant and needs the strong support of
a fence or arbor. It will eat any trellis without
extreme pruning in three years. Combine this once
bloomer with STRONG support with an early and a
late blooming clematis, or, if you're bold use my
combo: with lonicera Japonica and "Polish Spirit"
vit clematis.
That's the only once-blooming climber I'll bring
up on the page unless people are interested in others,
then go ahead and email me at hilda@nwlink.com
Two fabulous pink climbers are "Cecile Brunner"
with small peachy-white double blooms and "New
Dawn". CB goes to around twelve feet at maturity
here and ND is a HUGE rose. It can easily be pruned,
however. It's also one that grows to ten feet wide
quickly so one must be judicious in pruning.
Many shrub roses can be trained as climbers. Two
of the most fabulous are "Sally Holmes",
a vigorous hybrid musk, and "Westerland".
SH is a very pale white/peach single large flowering
like a dogwood and W is a copper/apricot/peach changing
all the time. They're both extremely hardy and disease
resistant. Sometimes vertical gardening means a
tall shrub and these two are among the best of the
bunch. Each large flowering. Probably to fifteen
feet at maturity; wide too.
For small flowering shrub rose that also can be
climbers one deep pink wonder is "Mozart"
and another "Ballerina". Both are shrub
roses but can be trained to arch and climb. Width
and height around 6 feet.
"Climbing Iceberg" and "Darlow's
Enigma" are two of the highest rated white
climbers. Iceberg is disease-resistant and hardy
to zone 5. Unsure of height
but probably around ten feet. DE is a new climber
first noticed in a Eugene, Oregon garden and is
all the rage in rose circles this year. Disease-resistant
with bright yellow stamens, it's going to be my
one "must have" rose this year. To twelve
feet, supposedly.
This one, from Heirloom Roses, is a bit different.
It easily takes partial shade and is stunning from
late April to October. It's the small flowering
"Grandma's Lace" developed by H's owner
John Clements and named for his wife's mother. It's
fragrant and ideal for an area under lilacs or some
deciduous tree which grows high above it. The color
is buff to pale peach...the color of old lace...but
it varies. It's an amazingly prolific bloomer and
one I wouldn't be without. Twelve feet but few thorns
and easy to train and prune.
One of the best of the "newish" bicolor
climbers is Dortmund. It's a rich scarlet red with
white brush. Great rose. Vigorous and will take
a little shade which darker roses don't do easily.
Twelve feet or more. Easy to prune. Very floriferous.
There are as many choices for lower zones from
such hybridizers as Explorer and Buck...but many
of these should be fine in any zone.
Joaniesgarden
Mini-vines?
No, not miniblinds, mini vines. Is there such a
thing? I know everyone usually wants something the
bigger the better...but I've always wanted something
small and hardy to containerize that would stay
under 5 or 6 ft. tops. Being zone 5 doesn't help
me much.
Comment from judi z.
I'm not gdngfool, but what about the dwarf sweetpeas,
a variety called Snoopea? Smaller leaved ivies can
be trained, and also pruned vigorously.
gdngfool
There are some fabulous clematis that grow small
in container and are easily pruned. Shrub ones are
wonderful...like the long blooming pink "Ajouneska"
or the highly recommended "Edith" which
is almost white, or "Louise Rowe" which
I grow in a container and is easily pruned to shape.
It's a triple lavender which eventually goes single
blooming at the end of the season.
Mini roses are great for containers as are the
fabulous new "Patio Rose" series.
One thing I've learned about roses in containers
is that you need twelve inches around the circumference
of the pot to the trunk of the rose to be mulched
to prevent winter freeze. There are several mini
climbers.
When gardening with vines in containers in the
heat, clematis and fuchsias will show stress quickly
and will grow long and lush with proper fertilization
and water.
There are more mini vines. The wonderful bean
"lab lab", and even prostrate rosemary
can be easily trained on a trellis. Ditto the tri
color ornamental sage.
Comment by Tina
This clematis that I bought from Gdngfool last
year grows 6-8' and has unusual blooms: Clematis
viticella 'Purpurea Plena Elegans' .
Tina
Oh Those Shady Walls!
Dilemma: Very large imposing blank apricot wall
on the north side of a two-story structure. Half
the wall is only one story.
Situation: Little to no sun *ever* except during
the summer for maybe one hour towards the end of
the day as the sun starts to set. Soil is good and
drains well.
Idea: I'd like to put up a large trellis - or
series of trellises - to break up the wall. But
I would like something to grow up them.
Question: What sort of vines would survive in
the near-sunless conditions? The plants are away
from the wall and get more sun then would ever reach
the vine.
Gdngfool
A couple suggestions: there is a climbing dicentra
available from Heronswood. I'd combine that, maybe,
with something espaliered for mostly foliage interest
because there seem to be no heavy bloomers which
would work for you without more light.
However, another solution may be to stagger those
terra cotta "half pots" for variety and
color choosing plants like creeping thyme, begonias,
and perhaps shade loving fuchsias like Alaska, Bianca
or Flying Cloud. The larger the leaf and lighter
the blossom color in fuchsias, the less amount of
sun is needed.
You might also want to experiment with those wrought
iron trellises which have pot holders in them and
are shaped like arching vines themselves. They are
very handsome and are often used in European gardens
to add interest on stucco walls in allies or places
where walls are close together. I know you're not
wild about wrought iron but the new metal paints
would allow you to make whatver color changes you
want and for them to be permanent. I'll try to find
a picture of this.
Joaniesgarden
Trellis Options
There is a murmur thru the Construction Industry
that CCA treated lumber will be phased out in the
next few years. Right now, the only alternatives
are Redwood, Cedar and recycled plastic composites.
Have you heard about any new alternatives? Most
trellis posts and fencing in general always recommend
treated posts for anything that is put into the
ground. Redwood in my part of the world is very
expensive and cedar is around the same price range.
Any ideas?
gdngfool
Yes, if you prefer wood, use bamboo. Bamboo is generally
a non-threatened species and is easy to construct
by lashing the pieces together with clamps or by
tying them with good looking leather lacing. You
can also super glue or duct tape them even *though
few of us would like to use DT it surely keeps the
trellis in place when you're working on it. If you
paint a wooden trellis and seal it, it's good too.
There will be lots of Chinese fir trellises and
arbors on the market in most areas.
My choice for treillage is copper tubing. I have
some plans or you might want to research under "copper
trellises" on the internet. You can use marine
glue *easily available at most craft centers* or
use the fittings available at national chains like
Lowe's or Home Depot. You can easily use a combination
of the two as well: glue and fittings which may
be soldered or glued.
The copper reduces surface foliage damage by slugs
and provides a beautiful patina as it ages. It is
also virtually indestructible. I have replaced almost
all my wood trellises with fan, pyramid, teepee,
large "Cathedral window" and other trellis.
I'm sure everyone who's gardened for many years
in a wet climate has had to perform the nasty task
of disengaging a vital growing plant in mid-season
from a wood trellis that has rotted. Not fun.
Copper piping is extremely reasonable, with ten
foot lengths of hollow pipe at around $3.50 and
joints and fittings usually under $1.00 a piece.
By duplicating the grid or fan forms in wood with
copper, you'll find an interesting substitute. Copper
pipe cutters are also available at major chains
and are reasonable.
Check "copper trellises" on the Internet
and a wide variety will appear. You'll see a lot
of arching. That hollow tubing is available in a
coil or spool.
Comment by judi z.
Mr. Judi used copper tubing and copper plumbing
fittings (tees and els) and the cost was about $25
per trellis. He made 3 and had them finished in
2 days. I reckon the DIY cost is about 1/3 of the
price for one bought complete, so if you're handy,
it's cheap *and* quick! Justmake sure you add plenty
on for the legs to go as deep into the earth as
possible.
gdngfool
You might want to smash the ends or cut them at
an angle too. Most of the online trellis plans show
that. There is a "Cathedral Window" trellis
from Maine that retails for $225.00 plus $78.00
to ship. St Lowell and I made one eight feet high
by 45 inches wide in three hours. That was our first
and is still my favorite.
If you want to do the dome type trellises, there
are copper small strap loop fittings as well as
copper nails to allow the easy movement of the round
structure around the vertical supports.
There are many many ways to do this.
The copper arbors can be made to fit the plants
uppon it by varying the horizontal supports between
the two identical support curves. These can be fitted
with a lovely finial on the top or you can bring
other elements into the design by weaving in 1/8
copper tubing and using it like basket weave or
wire "ties".
I bought a trellis for my herbs with a simple
tee pee form but with which copper wiring was used
to weave in beautiful glass pieces. It's stunning
and would be easily duplicated.
Comment by joyceww
I was wondering about rebar. I think that's the
name of the metal rods I pounded into the ground
to hold copper tubing to make a hose guide. I would
think it would work well to get longer rebar and
pound it into the ground where the trellis posts
will go, leaving a couple of feet above ground too
and slipping the copper tubing on the rebar. Does
that make sense gdingfool? Or maybe the easier to
handle copper pipe is too narrow for the rebar?
Comment by Joaniesgarden
I was going to suggest either cementing them in,
if you want it permanent, or digging a hole big
enough to tamp crushed stone around the braces.
Rebar sounds so much easier.
Comment by joyceww
My thought is that with careful measuring the
copper trellis can be just slipped over the rebar.
Then it could be easily moved later, with the only
problem being prying out the rebar.
gdngfool
Just crimp the ends of the trellis so that it
eases into the ground. Standard rebar is the same
interior width as the copper tubing. It's not a
problem at all to add "legs" and crimp
them. It's probably easiest to read the plans online,
where instructions are very clear.
Because we sold them commercially, we designed
our own. Individual needs are virtually limitless
and you can secure or not, as you wish. Remember
too that dome trellises are often on uneven ground.
All you need is a shovel to bury the "legs"
to whatever depth you want. It's a snap. Anytime
you want a permanent unsupported trellis in the
garden, it's probably best to sink the legs in concrete
or cement.
Comment by Tina
There is a garden on Whidbey Island (across the
water from me) that is owned by a woman named Tina
Weeks. It's a private garden but most days she allows
strangers to come in and wander around. A fabulous
place! Her husband uses rebar to create some great
garden structures, including arbors and trellises.
Also some fabulous art to compliment the lovely
surroundings. I was really impressed but decided
that it would take a great deal more skill to work
with than copper piping. I think the copper is simply
easier to work with. But the rebar look was fabulous!
Gdngfool
I love rebar for stakes that you put standard metal
finials on or for things like my three foot wide
by almost as long rebar dragonfly perched on a weeping
cedar. But for growing clematis, or small fine vines,
I would always think the ridges would be tough Copper
is more accommodating to any garden too. Less industrial
looking but I agree rebar can be beautiful and dramatic.
Love garden fences utilizing it too.
Tina
Clematis Armandii
I moved a c. armandii two years ago to a new sunnier
location. But the vine was damaged and had to be
cut down fairly low. There were some leaf buds left,
but not many. The thing still lives but it doesn't
really appear to be growing. I'm not sure what to
do with it. I'd hoped that it would show a lot of
growth last year, but it languished. This is it's
normal bloomtime and needless to say, there ain't
no flowers!
Any ideas on what I can do to encourage growth?
It's got a big old ugly spot to fill and make beautiful.
It's in a sunny location, good soil with decent
water (though it does get dry when the rains stop
if I don't water very regularly).
Gdngfool
What clematis armandii demand most is plenty of
shade as well as sun. Tricky.
Make sure it is in good soil and away from any
wind. It requires a LOT of moisture. It's a zone
8 hardy plant and lives best without frosty nights
and freezing temps like we've had. It should be
mulched heavily to survive our winters. I've lost
too many of these to try them again but since they
grow to 20 feet, they're a lovely garden statement
for those who can assure their survival in mild
winters. I'd dig it up and check the roots for dieback,
cut back dead or dying foliage and replant and in
newly composted soil and fertilize if it appears
healthy. Definitely check the roots though as it
may very well be dying.
Chris in UK
What Methods Do You Use?
I'd love for you to tell us what vertical methods
you've used and found good for upwards gardening.
My neighbour has many (she's run out of space).
She has planted 8 foot poles with wooden trays on
top. Containers containing trailing plants sit on
the trays and climbers of all sorts run up the poles.
Watering might be a problem, but she has terraced
the garden so the containers on trays are always
accessible for watering from the top of a step near
the pole.
Gdngfool
In my garden it's pretty much "Improv"
There's a LOT of salvage here. Two examples...one
was the trellis which was retail shelving: a square
wood frame with "legs" that has doweling
in about half inch widths *round of course* crossing
the frame which is four feet wide. I have six of
these panels in the driveway as sort of a "screen"
from the driveway into the garden. They're in a
roughly semi circular position and each has a climbing
pink rose *all the same variety; Mme. Leone or something*
and when this once bloomer fades, a variety of clematis
begin to bloom. This is one of my faves now but
it was pretty ragged looking until the roses rose.
Sort of "Woodhenge".
The other is the tall marble column scored as
a high dining table base. It's in a rectangular
bed with variegated and different ornamental grasses
and daffs in the bed hastily cut out to accommodate
it. On top is a faux bronze container with all kinds
of "hangies" with a tall phormium center.
Along the fences are everything from an old small
barn side door to bring the thug clematis Montana
out at the center about a foot and to camouflage
the root structure.
My favorite trellises are large copper domes and
tee pee types that are covered with climbing roses
and clematis in many instances.
I've learned, after doing it the opposite way
always: that is buy the container or trellis and
then consider the plant later, that the best way
is to build the clematis or container to accommodate
the habits of the plant you want. It's easier that
way.
In England there's a vertical window-framing product
I love. It's a series of pots *believe they're plastic*
which are arranged to frame the window in a U shape.
The top planter contains a watering system outlet
that you just plug into a hose and little tubes
go down to feed all the plants. It's so creative
and the sample looks as if little begonias and other
plants are growing up with the vines planted in
a window box accompanying the pots of color. Wish
I could find the name of it and where it's available.
My espaliered apple tree grows close to a fence.
We fashioned an odd trellis which was rectangular
o support it with "arms" allowing circulation
and support that were made from copper tubing where
the ends were glued perpendicular to the trellis.
The one foot supports work well for the one foot
horizontal leaders of the plant. If I didn't use
copper, I'd fashion these shapes out of anything
I could: bamboo or twigs...whatever works.
Your neighbor's idea is pretty cool.
Part of the fun of creating supports is the differing
king of architectural value, and whimsy, they have,
to me.
I'm going to build a "tower" of terra
cotta pots and paint them and seal them. It will
be about six to eight feet high and have a spiky
or hanging plant on it. Columns are so much fun.
One of my friends used a cement form and made
a ten foot column. When it hardened she raised it
and then grouted one part at a time and added crushed
glass and tile. Then she put a square cement "paver"
at the top and then a planter which she changes
seasonally. It's right at the bottom of a long steep
driveway.
Loisann
Attaching the Growies?
What do you use to attach vines, canes, or branches
to an arbor, trellis, etc., when the attachment
should last several seasons?
Comment by judi z.
I've found that green garden twine (available
from quite a few mail/net order sources) lasts several
years.
gdngfool
I don't like the green twining thing because there's
wire in the middle. It isn't suitable for weak stems.
I use old nylon stockings, cut into strips and green
gardening tape. The nylons have a great deal of
give and can be cut thin and never damage the canes
or twines. Eventually they turn a green color from
rain. My fave are support hose. I attach the huge
canes of Constance Spry to the arbor with them and
never get close enough to get gored by thorns either.
Comment by judi z.
The twine I have is not wired--it's like old-fashioned
brown twine, only green. I think Gardener's Supply
carries it, as does A.M. Leonard.
gdngfool?
Then that would work...but personally, I like
the nylons for camouflage when working with the
hog roses.
Lawn Goddess
Clematis Questions
Although I haven't bought or planted any yet, I
looking to add a couple of Clematis to my garden
this year. I always like to try to learn as much
about what I want to add before doing so. Just so
you will know I live in Zone 6.
The two I had planned on adding were Niobe and
Jackmanii, although upon further reading I've learned
that Gypsy Queen might produce the deepest purple
color. When looking in my "Ortho's All About
Pruning" it said that Clematis are divided
into three groups, with different times to prune
each: looks like it as something to do with when
they bloom. I know Jackmanii blooms early summer,
but not sure about the other two. When should I
prune these?
Also, would the ones I've chosen about do okay
in my zone? And do you have to train them to climb
a trellis or arbor, or do they just to it on their
own? If you
have to train how do you go about it?
And one final question. "The Southern Living
Garden Book" says that Jackmani blooms from
early summer through fall. Do you know the blooming
schedule
of the other two?
Gdngfool
Actually, there are many purple and deep violet
flowering clematis...large and small flowering.
The largest purple "Warasawki Nike" is
a deep purple and another keeper. It's darker than
"Gypsy Queen" and was probably in cultivation
later. These are reddish dark purple plants. The
blue -purple "Polish Spirit" is an absolutely
stunning, easy-to-grow and wilt-resistant viticella.
The vits are recommended to clematis lovers because
they are disease-resistant, prolific bloomers and
bloom through a long cycle. Vits are smaller in
bloom than many of the other clematis groups.
When it comes to pruning, there are really twelve
groups now, according to the expert guru, Howell.
It makes it much easier to prune clematis when you
are aware of the subgroups. Jackmanii must be pruned
severely if you don't want it flopping all over.
But you will not need to worry about that for a
couple years. Remember "first year it sleeps,
next year it creeps, third year it leaps"
To know where and when to prune the varieties
you choose, go to http://www.howells98.freeserve.co.uk/Pages/Pruning.html.
What severe pruning means is to cut back to under
a foot. It's tough to do.
The viticella now has a separate pruning guide
too. Some say they don't need pruning at all, but
this year I flinched and cut mine way back. They
just get too floppy.
I'd like to add that when Howell says "no
pruning" about the Evergreen, alpina, macropetala,
Montana and rockery, that isn't to be taken as "don't
prune".
It means you do not need to prune these varieties
to ensure good growth and bloom, and times to prune
are anytime they aren't in bud. Each of these can
be monstrous...especially the Montanas. Rockery
clematis can grow ten feet the first year...or maybe
I should clarify that and any "shrub"
clemmies. All these varieties will grow like Topsy.
Prune as you like to shape and save other plants
from being engulfed.
Lawn Goddess
More Clematis Questions
I had planned to plant the Jackmanii or Gypsy Queen
with a fan trellis for support. Planned on using
an archway trellis/arbor? for the Niobe. I remember
reading on the tag that you are suppose to plant
Niobe 3-4 ft. apart. Will I just need one, planted
on one side, to climb up, over, and down the other
side? Or would I do better to buy two, planting
one on each side, so they grow up and over, meeting
in the middle of the top of the archway?
gdngfool
I hate to give you this information, but Niobe
and Jackmanii clematis are two varieties most prone
to dieback and clematis wilt. Be very careful with
either. They don't like to be moved except when
dormant.
Tell me about the plants you have: are they in gallon
pots? How old or do you know?
This is critical for both these varieties. I pulled
Niobe up. You may be in a different area but here
nurseries have switched to other reds because now
there are other wonderful reds. If you can replace
Niobe, notorious for root rot, with another clematis,
do so please.
Lawn Goddess?
Haven't bought them yet. The ones they are selling
around here are in about 2" pots and are already
6-8" high. They will be receiving mostly morning
to mid-day sun.
Just picked Niobe because I really don't have anything
red in my yard and "The Southern Living Garden
Book" said it was "the darkest red of
all". Had thought about Jackmanii 'cause that's
the one you always hear about, but upon reading
in the above mentioned book I would really rather
go with Gypsy Queen because it is said to be the
"deepest purple".
gdngfool
When growers tell me that they want to discontinue
a standard like "Niobe" it's indicative
of the new clematis coming into their own everywhere.
Clematis are often grown for several years before
being released for cultivation and they often come
from England, Poland or Germany, then come to us
and our tested before being released. It is amazing
how many hundreds of clematis there are. Very interesting.
Gypsy Queen is a very good clematis. Try to get
two year old plants. The old saw is "The first
year clematis sleep, the second they creep, the
third they leap".
Usually any shape that is at least a couple feet
wide is a fine trellis. The fan shapes are good
for clematis because clemmies tend to grow more
in the middle and top than from the bottom. You
can prune to fit.
Lawn Goddess
How can I tell if they are a two-year plant unless
it is stated on the packaging somewhere? I have
seen some that do make this claim but when I look
in the bag in the box I see very little, if anything
at all.
Also, can you recommend a really good, really
red Clematis?
gdngfool
"Vulcan" and "Ruby Glow" are
recommended reds and absolutely "Kerimisiana"
which is a bright red small flowering viticella.
Those tiny two inch pots are immature clematis and
usually take several years to bloom. The tiny little
shoots are often fertilized well to make them look
substantial but clematis need a good strong root
system to survive. Buy two year old plants in gallon
pots. You can find them advertised as such on the
Internet, or perhaps at local garden centers. I'd
stay away from ANY large flowering clematis in a
two inch pot. I've never had one last, sadly. But
the gallon pots produce some pretty amazing results.
Always try to see if they're rootbound. Rootbound
is good in a clematis, by my standards, because
it often indicates that the plant will soon be repotted
into a three or five gallon pot and the customer
will be charged more. The roots are easy to separate.
Look also for thick and multiple shoots and buds
whenever possible, dependent on the bloomtime. For
example, Montanas, macropetalas and alpinas now
should all be budded in a mature plant. April-May
is when they bloom.
gdngfool
Did I answer this one to your satisfaction? Hope
I made myself clear. Gallon plants are often two
years. Look for the roots and check out pots hat
have holes in the bottom for rootbound clemmies.
On the Internet there are companies that advertise
two year old roots will be sent. Much safer with
those then those spindly little shoots. Nothing
in a two inch pot is going to be easy to sustain
in the first year. Better go for the biggies.
Lawn Goddess
Last Clematis Question
I really would love to run down and buy my Clematis
today, while there is still a good selection. The
problem is I really don't want to put them in the
ground until next weekend (last expected frost date
around here being April 15). If I do go ahead and
buy them should I keep them inside? (I think it's
suppose to get down to 30 tonight). Or would they
be better off outside and sheltered from frost?
They are being kept in a greenhouse like thing (poles
and clear plastic) and they are using kerosene heaters
at night, although it's still quite drafty in there.
gdngfool
Don't worry about it. I wouldn't put a greenhouse
grown clematis in the ground with those night temps.
But they shouldn't stay long in the house either.
Try hardening them off by taking them out when you
come home in the evening for a couple hours. Or
leave them out all day if you'll be gone and know
the temps won't go low until night. Not to worry,
you'll be fine.
Sandie
Vertical Beginner
I'm very excited to start adding vines to my garden.
I have lots of 6', redwood, fence-lines. Total about
100' around my back yard. No vines at all yet.
I have am about to plant several vining plants
and could use information about location (sun),
& what vines need to stay healthy.
I am ready to plant 3 (very small now), Clematis.
I bought them as roots and they barely do anything.
I know they go slow at first, but they may not be
as healthy as they should have been when I bought
them. Some are 2nd yr., 2 are 3rd yr.
I also have a pink Jasmine to plant.
Which ones can take full day-southern exposure-sun
(on the fence)? Which can take Western exposure
- sun from 11:00 on - late day is hot, but only
in summer. Does Jasmine want part-to-mostly light-shade?
Do they need trellises? The fence is slatted vertically.
Thanks! I'm new to vines and love them!
Gdngfool
Hey that's okay. We're all beginners cuz we can't
hope to grow every plant there is...which reminds
me, can you go out and look at the clematis varieties?
There are at least twelve specific groups of clematis
so I won't be able to make a blanket statement about
the growth of any of them. If you could supply me
with the names, will try to advise you of the blooming
times, placements and conditions of their growth.
I can tell you that most clematis do not react well
to full sun in zone 9. What is your average summer
temperature? Just gimme the details when you can.
As far as the pink jasmine goes, it takes partial
sun *that is not full sun* in my zone seven garden.
What a BEAUTIFUL vine with such delicate lacy leaves.
Put it in an area with about five to seven hours
of sun at almost any CA exposure and stand back!
Sandie The Clematis are (1.) Multi Blue and (2.)
Duchess of Edinburgh.
Sorry, dumb box does NOT have bot. name! Does
say - blooms in summer.
I have 50+ feet of South facing fence - total
all-day sun; & 20+' of West facing fence (evening
hot sun, am shade) 50+ ' of North facing. (all-day
light shade- sun on tops & a bit on sides. Average
Summer temps are 78-83 degs. Runs one week cold-60s,
next in 90's, next 60's again, next in 70s, etc.
Very erratic! Never steady. Summer - Late day -
HOT HOT sun (95)- would prob. be tops a week at
one time, then 2 days here & there. (totaling
about 15 days) Many summer days are 78-82!
Gdngfool
Multi Blue can take some heat like that but Duchess
is more finicky. The best clematis for the kind
of heat you'll have IMO ae the texensis varieties.
As you might know, the texensis stands for Texas
as far as the heat is concerned. This is a great
class of clematis and there are some beauties in
it.
You have a lot of fence line to cover. You'll probably
have to protect the clematis in the heat...the Duchess
for sure. Make sure they are well watered and get
a lot of mulch at the roots and maybe throw a shade
cloth over them when temps pass 80s. Zone 9 and
up growers need to be careful as most clematis don't
do well in high heat.
Sandie, if you're considering others, email me
and I'll get you a list of those you might need.
You may or may not find them in your local nurseries.
I know you will love multi-blue. It's a wonderful
clematis.
JudithUK
I Have This Container
About 22" across I think. It's made of the
light-weight stuff that looks like stone or cement
or something. What size trellis or obelisk should
I use to make the balance right?
gdngfool
That's an excellent question Judith. Maybe I could
help better if I knew what you were planning to
plant in it because some climbers obscure trellises
in short order. Also, is the pot round or square?
Rule of thumb in my garden is twice the width span
of the container for height, but heck, some of the
coolest demonstration clematis are in small containers
and look good flying high. I'd use just under four
feet as a standard but anything works.
Tina
Five Leaf Akebia
When is the best time to prune this vine? I need
to repaint the fence that it's growing on and will
have to do a bit of pruning back as it's growing
crazy and will never come off the fence as it is
right now.
Gdngfool
It should be showing those little tiny round ballish
clusters which are the buds. If you want it to bloom
*and it should very soon* try to hold off until
it's finished blooming, then whack away. If you
don't care about blooming, go ahead and whack now.
As you know, the blooms are easily id'ed by the
ball thingys. There's little harm you can do to
the vine at this time but if you wanna wait til
it blooms so you get the flowering, wait a month
or two.
Dicentra
To Prune or Not to Prune
Last year C. 'Etoile Violette' grew on two shoots,
and bloomed moderately well. About mid-summer, half
the vine browned out.
I haven't cut it back. Should I? This will be
only it's third year in the ground. The trellis
is only five feet high, inadequate...but there it
is and not likely to be replaced this year.
I want more shoots from the root. Since now there's
only one viable stem. What to do?
gdngfool
I feel your pain, Di. It is so tough to cut back
a clematis just as it's beginning to come into "it's
own". But, the clematis guru, Howell, in a
newish pruning guide to the twelve clematis groups,
advises cutting back all viticellas hard with the
emerging shoots.
Since mine are greening up at ten feet in some
instances, this is tough "love". Viticellas
show color VERY early here...and buds.
Would also recommend tenderly checking just under
the ground to see if other shoots are emerging.
If the crown feels good to you, as in "intact"
from gentle prodding, would advise remulching and
fertilizing now and every two weeks with a weaker
solution
until the shoots are better established, then converting
to the monthly applications as recommended for general
clematis care.
Whack away.
Tina
Very Sunny, Very Dry
I've a location that gets a great deal of sun (southern
exposure) and almost never sees water outside of
the rainy season (though if something were planted
there I'd make an effort to see that it did). Nevertheless,
it *is* dry. It's the corner of the building and
there is a downspout there that I can cover for
a vine of some sort. It can go rather high (two
stories), but I'd prefer it didn't really go more
than 15' for maintenance reasons. It is also welcome
to vine to a slightly shadier area to cover some
ugly electrical boxes and such.
I was thinking that perhaps a clematis would work...
any other suggestions? I'm open to all ideas!
gdngfool
Well, you know me, I'd suggest a rose for that
space. There are several which would meet your apricot
requirements that are easily trained, but the best
of the bunch for taming, IMO is the Bellevue Botanical's
*and mine* almost thornless "Ghislaine de Felegondo".
Know you know this rose. It would be an excellent
candidate for espalier because of the thornlessness
and the ease in training. It's also disease-resistant
and a wonderful rose for the vase, which, as you
know, many of the older or antique varieties are
not.
Other heat beaters are lonicera...the best choice
for birds...any variety. The bronze leafed ones
might be a good idea for contrast, but they grow
less quickly. My other favorites in your apricot
color ranges would be the climber "Apricot
Nectar" or the stunning white "Darlow's
Enigma" that is a very "hot" rose
right now.
Another reason I'd recommend "Ghislaine"
is that she would be an ideal candidate to pair
with a clematis of vigor. "Ghislaine"
begins blooming in late April or early May and by
then a spring clematis is gone so there's no competition.
I'd try it *and I'm going to* with the splendid
white macropetala "White Swan". Had trouble
with the later blooming clematis "Venosa Violacea"
with the Westerland but it might work as well for
combination bloom. Don't usually recommend the clematis
with rose combo but in an area that will get hot
sun in summer, what's better than a dose of clematis
in the spring?
Samjuan
Cheap Wisteria Support
I have a wisteria potted and ready to plant. I
have a swingset frame to plant it under. My problem
is the horizontal bars. I have none and no money
to spend on them. Is there anything free or virtually
so that would make good enough horizontal supports
for this swingset frame?
Gdngfool
I'd suggest using one inch copper piping. It's
cheap, beautiful and sturdy, which the wisteria
will need. It's also pretty easy to secure the tendrils
to round supports. Remember, depending on the variety
of wisteria you have, they can take down supports
which aren't sturdy so the wood should be treated
and sealed whenever possible. Any heavy metal support
is preferable to most wood which can rot or be invaded
by insects over time.
Comment from Joaniesgarden
For less money, if you have a salvage yard near
by, ask them if they have lengths of pipe the same
diameter as the swing set, and use the same clamps
you would use on chain link fencing. I think they
are called a beulvard clamp? One clamp is bolted
onto the swing set poles and the pipe is inserted
in the sleeve for the pipe, then the other clamp's
bolt and nut are tightened on the second clamp for
a nice sturdy support. The pipe would have to be
cut all the same lengths, if you can borrow a pipe
cutter from someone that's even better. Measure
from the inside to inside of the swing legs.
Another cheap way is to drill holes in each of
the legs of the swing set and string thru each hole
#9 wire. It's pretty stiff and hard to work with,
so you may want to go with a lighter gauge wire,
or strand cable. If you install on each wire a turnbuckle,
you will not have to worry about sagging in the
future, just tighten the turnbuckle.
Dabee
Bougainvillea, Zone 9 CA
Bougainvillea is a very popular plant in our area.
I have tried twice to grow it without much success.
My first plant got too much water and my second
plant froze in a bad freeze.
I have studied the others growing in the neighborhood
and believe I tried to force a square peg in a round
hole. I think I should try to grow it on the side
of house facing east, because of the light reflected
from the neighbors windows it will get plenty of
light throughout most of the day and also because
of the drainage. There is a very narrow bed there
about 12 inches wide that goes between the house
and the drive.
My question is would you suggest a trellis for
this plant. I would like to keep it at 9' in height
but encourage it to spread over a 12' space. Also
do you think the bed is wide enough to support it's
growth, do you know if the roots could ultimately
damage the drive?
gdngfool
The space for planting is fine because the boug
has brittle and weak root system. As far as a nine
foot trellis to go twelve feet wide, the cheapest
thing is probably to get extensions from the wall...and
you can use copper tubing or brackets, just about
anything to allow circulation to the branches, and
just peg the wall with hooks because you don't really
need to trellis bougainvilleas. They will need support
at first until the reach the top of the fence...use
a large fan trellis you make of copper tubing or
metal if you can, or find a treated wood one...the
boug will soon grow out of bounds of a standard
trellis.
Sandie
Anchoring Climbing Roses?
I have a sturdy redwood patio cover frame that I
am attempting to anchor my climbing rose to. The
post is no problem but the weight of the limbs -
as they grow larger - weighs down the horizontal
parts. What would you recommend that's strong, but
won't hurt the limbs, to anchor this part up with?
Maybe I'm doing it wrong? I did not put any limbs
on top of the patio cover, cuz it's that green,
corrugated, plastic, thinking it would deteriorate
it (do you know if it would?). Maybe that would
distribute the Rose's horiz. weight better? The
frame would hold it.
I appreciate any ideas! Thanks!
gdngfool
I'm not entirely sure what you mean. Do you mean
you're growing a rose up a support beam and then
onto a cover for a patio?
If so, the best supports should be the same for
what are used to peg roses. Roses are most often
pegged to form a circular mound. It's a beautiful
way to train a rose but results in about a ten foot
spread when maturely trained, which is space many
of us don't have. There is a lot of rose pegging
in Europe. They use what amounts to gigantic hairpin
shaped things to keep the canes of the roses supported
in the dirt and still giving it the circulation
it requires by suspending it a bit above the support.
Just remember if it's up on top of a patio cover
that is really high and it's a vigorous rose that
you might have to get up on a ladder to shape and
prune it. You may be able to just let it lay on
the patio cover. I'd have to understand this better
to make an intelligent comment so if you could explain
the support structure and height or send me a pic
I'll try my best to help.
Sandie
Sure wish I had a pic! It's all solid, strong redwood
boards - built in a square shape.
The support beams are thick 4"X4". (very
large for the weight of a patio cover) 2"x4"
boards extend out 18'(feet) from my house-roof =
to the lawn. All edges are also 2"x4".
Has 18'x6', corrugated green-plastic on top, and
cross supports(2x4) every 4' of the 18'.
Rose is planted - at the end corner, along a thick
4"x4" beam. Beam is 7 feet high. All edges
are 7' high. Roof end is higher, but no plants there.
I already have to use a ladder to prune & groom
it. No problem!
The problem is that the rose grows 'up' the beam
fine. Then I've trained it to go out in the two-corner-directions
- that's fine too... EXCEPT that I have put all
the branches extending OUT, on the "edge"
board and "barely" on top of the plastic.
So ALL the branches "Weight" is "suspended"
(hanging) on the edge boards and I want to know
what is 'strong' to tie it up with that "won't"
cut into the branches (from the pull by their weight)!
AND can corrugated plastic take the weight of a
climbing rose, very long?? The redwood structure
can hold it fine. Unsure about the plastic?
gdngfool
Most climbing roses grow on last year's wood so
it is important for pruning to know the variety
and see if it's one I'm familiar with or can research
for you. There are so many types of climbers; many
only bloom once in late spring or early summer,
others bloom from April to frost or late fall...and
in California, may bloom almost continually; or
not.
As far as how to anchor the rose, it depends on
the way it blooms and how high, really, as much
as what type *thornless, semi, or very thorny.
If you have gauntlet gloves, it doesn't matter
if it's very thorny or not. Then I would recommend
that you use strips of nylon stockings to attach
the vine to the wood or whatever. Nylons are very
resilient...when they're cut in three inch by six
or eight inch strips and won't hurt the rose. The
can be tied securely and the stretchy kind may be
cut very close to the knot.
I have a monster rose *Constance Spry* on a thick
wood arbor and have secured canes with nylon stocking
strips for years. They last for years and don't
show...but most important, they are sturdy and they
don't hurt the rose and if you wear gauntlet gloves
or leather gloves tucked in a long sleeved thick
shirt, it won't hurt you either. Good luck!
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