Osmamthus heterophylus "Goshiki"

 Osmanthus bear a superficial resemblance to holly, and share a similar leaf
shape and general plant habit, though they are from a different plant family. While they do not produce those familiar red berries, osmanthus are notable for their fragrant blossoms, which appear on established plants in late summer into fall, and their uses in the landscape are similar. "Goshiki" is one of the most striking, with spring foliage emerging in shades of orange, cream and pink before settling in to its usual pattern of green marbled heavily with gold. People often have mixed reactions to variegated plants, with some folks loving them and others finding them a bit unnatural. You can usually count me among the former, and this is especially true during winter, when my eye is drawn to the splash of color they provide.

While not hardy in coldest zones, Osmanthus are very adaptable otherwise, and will grow in sun to part shade in a wide variety of soils. "Goshiki" grows more compactly than the regular O. heterophylus, and makes ideal foundation plant, as well as small to mid sized hedge or speciman plant in a mixed border. Needless to say, it is also a natural for a Japanese garden, and can be kept to most ant size desired with a little pruning.

Pulmonarias are indispensable in the woodland garden, providing both floral as well as foliage interest. These excellent plants have been saddled with the common name of "Lungwort", hardly an appetizing thought and originally applied due to the resemblance in the wild forms of P. saccharata to lung tissue with their spotted leaves, and these were thought at one time to have medicinal properties related to lungs due to that resemblance. Don't let the name fool you, though, as these are first rate garden plants.

In "Excalibur", the metallic, silvery color covers nearly the entire leaf surface, leaving only a thin green edge, and seem to glow in a shady border. Spring blossoms arrive as soon as spring temperatures rise just a bit, as early as February in some climes, and are fairly long lasting, changing from blue to pink as they mature. It is the foliage that is the real show, though, and after blossoming the leaves provide interest until heavy frost cuts them down. These are very hardy plants in all but the most extreme climates, and "Excaliber" is little troubled by the mildew that can affect some other Pulmonarias. Just give it a rich, moist soil in a spot with dappled to half sun and enjoy.

Few shrubs are as rugged and adaptable as flowering quince, and their bloom is one of the real heralds of spring. The traditional red flowering quince is a familiar sight, growing nearly everywhere with equal ease, but many people might be surprised that it comes in colors other than the familiar red. Of these, the cultivar "Toyo Nishiki" is one of the most striking and well worth seeking out. With it's blossoms ranging from pink to white to red, all on the same plant and sometimes even on the same flower, this one is a real attention grabber, and like any flowering quince, the branches can be cut in winter and brought inside where they will provide bouquets of blossoms at a most welcome time.

This will form a mid sized shrub to six feet or more in time, but can easily be kept smaller. It isn't at all fussy as to soils or water, and is hardy enough to survive all but the most inhospitable gardening areas. Try it in a mixed border where it will get the blooming season off to an early start, or in a more formal Japanese garden where it's zig-zagging branches can be used to great advantage.

Gauras are very easy to grow and require little other than a spot in the sun and reasonably well drained soil. Despite being native to areas of the southwest, they are quite hardy and will surive sub zero temperatues. They can exhibit some leaf spotting in early spring, especially if cool and moist, but soon outgrow this as the weather warms. Once the plants seem bloomed out, just shear them back fairly hard and you will be rewarded by more blossoms and renewed foliage. At two feet in height, these are more easily worked into a small garden than their four foot counterparts.

Is it possible to really dislike lilacs? Perhaps, for the tall French lilacs often outgrow their spot in the garden, and produce those intoxicating blooms too high to really appreciate. Add a bit of mildew, a bit too much familiarity and it's easy to understand that they might be taken for granted. Put those blooms at nose level, though, throw in some mildew resistance and even a little fall color for good measure and you have a real winner. No wonder "Miss Kim" is so popular.

Miss Kim is a different species than the taller S. vulgaris types, with a decidedly more compact growth habit. They will generally top out at 6-8 feet or so, but can be kept smaller with a little judicious pruning right after flowering, so can fit in to even the smallest gardens. They are extremely hardy, and will grow happily in all but the mildest winter areas with just routine care. As a harbinger of spring, they can't be beat.

Although many people might refer to many of these hanging basket plants as annuals, they are actually tender to half-hardy perennials, and the superbenas are no exception. They will survive several degrees of frost, especially if planted in the ground, and so can be used as a perennial in zones 8-10. For most folks, though, they are better used for summer color, and this is a role in which they shine, for wil regular water and feeding, they will continue to bloom until after first frost. If you have been disappointed with some of the older, annual strains of verbena which soon become infested with mildew, you might try these new "superbenas", which are stronger growing and more resistant.

Clematis are often called "queen of the climbers", and with such a variety of color and form, is it any wonder? People are often attracted to the gaudy, large flowered hybrids, but the genus is rife with smaller flowered gems that make up for lack of flower size with their ease of growing and multitude of blossoms. You would do well to consider some of these, and Betty, here, is one of the best.

Betty Corning is often listed as a C. viticella, but is thought to be a hybrid between C. viticella and C. crispa, and was discovered growing in a New York garden in the 1930's. What serendipity, as gardeners have enjoyed growing her ever since. With a long blooming season which can extend from summer and into fall, Betty produces masses of dainty, bell-shaped blossoms of a soft lilac color and satiny sheen. The pendulous blossoms have a light fragrance and have a grace and charm all their own. While the flowers may look delicate, the plant is very vigorous, and is capable of growing 10 feet in a season. A good, hard pruning in early spring will help keep it in bounds if necessary, but this is one of the great ones for scrambling up into trees if left unpruned.

Though often more of a large shrub than a tree, Vitex is invaluable for providing color in a mixed border right when so many other plants begin to wane. This underused plant is in the same family as butterfly bush and with similar spires of blossoms, and like it's relative will attract bees and butterflies to the garden. It has a far better plant habit, though, as instead of the gawky, ungainly growth of a butterfly bush, chaste tree will form a rounded dome much more suitable for the general landscape. Its aromatic foliage is untroubled by the mites that plague butterfly bush as well, so chaste tree is certainly worth a look for those who want the look of butterfly bush but without the drawbacks.

Vitex is unfussy as to soils and watering, and enjoys as much heat as it can get. In areas around zone 6 or below, it can act something like an herbaceous perennial when cold nips it back, but in warmer areas will grow anywhere from 8-15 or even 20 feet when allowed.

The genus salvia sports many garden worthy plants, but quite a few of them are too tender for the average garden. One of the hardiest, and more adapted along a wide range of climates is our native S azurea, which grows through the plains states and midwest, producing its glorious true blue blossoms at a most welcome time in late summer and earlier fall. It can be a bit of a lax grower, though, requiring either a good shearing or some staking to keep it from flopping. Selected from wild, "Nekan" (named after Nebraska and Kansas) has been chosen for its stockier plant habit, which makes it an excellent candidate for the mixed border. This is an easy grower with flowers larger than the species, and that true blue mixes well in just about any color scheme and will provide a nice pick me up during these "dog days". Just give it a spot in full sun and don't overwater.

Smoke trees are easy and hardy plants, and are quick growers -- hitting 20 feet or so if left unpruned. They can also be used as a large shrub, though,and if pruned heavily in spring can be kept to about half that height or less. They are drought tolerant when established and are an excellent choice as a specimen plant or patio tree or in a spot in a large mixed border.

You may find these listed as Gaultheria as taxonomists bat around the genera a bit, but no matter the name, these make excellent choices for providing a spot of color through the fall and winter months.

They may not be well known, but these little evergreen shrubs are like a southern hemisphere counterpart to our northern blueberries, lingons and huckleberries, except that the fruit is not edible. They are all season performers, though, with new spring growth showing bronzy hues and small white blossoms that develop into variously colored fruit -- typically red or
white, but on some selected cultivars with colors ranging from blush pink through rose and into shades of plum and amethyst. Best of all, the fruit lasts for many months from late summer, right through winter and even into the following spring.

Like their blueberry cousins, pernettyas like a spot in half to full sun (a little shade helps in hotter areas), and a well drained, acidic soil. Plant several for best berry production, and these make a good choice for a small, informal hedge, or as a smaller foundation plant. Those below about zones 6 or 7 will need to provide them some winter protection.

In nature, this perennial shrub can grow to ten feet tall What most people believe to be its flowers are actually colored bracts, or modified leaves. For many years, the typical holiday plant was a bright red, but now there are over 100 varieties in shades of red, pink, burgundy, white and even yellow.

When choosing a poinsettia, make sure the foliage is green right down to the soil line. Don’t buy a plant that is sleeved in paper or plastic, as they will not last as long as one in an unadorned pot. Try not to buy a plant that has been crowded with others, since crowding can cause bract loss. Make sure the soil is not wet, as root rot can be a problem that will shorten the life of the plant.

Exposure to low temperatures can damage a poinsettia, so make sure it isn’t out in the cold (an unheated car, an outdoor porch) for more than a few minutes. Keep near a sunny window, but don’t allow any part of your poinsettia to touch a cold window. Keep away from cold drafts and direct heat, including areas near an exterior door. A daytime temperature of between 60 and 70 degrees, and a night temperature of 55 are ideal. High temperatures will also shorten the life of a poinsettia. If possible, at night, move to a cool room.

Check the soil daily, and only water when the soil is dry Make sure the pot has adequate drainage and don’t let it’s feet get wet. Punch holes in the pot, if necessary to assure good drainage. If you keep it past the holiday season, a good houseplant fertilizer should be applied once a month.